Day 80 – Taunggyi, Myanmar

Today it was another motorcycle trip around the city. This time up to the highest part of the mountain overlooking Taunggyi. We reached one peak and saw some pagodas. I learned some about Nat belief here in Myanmar, which is the spirits or ghosts of old people still around.

Then we came across a hole in the ground which looked like it went down at least 10m (30ft). I used a mirror to try to see the bottom, but it was some kind of natural cave and it wouldn’t be the last I see today. We walk a bit down the mountain and enter a cave with a pretty big room. Outside the cave entrance you can see an excellent view of the city. Inside the cave there are stairs and many statues that have recently been added.

Next we walked to another peak of the mountain, which is supposed to give the best view. A few parts of the path were tricky since there was some mud. At the top it was a good few as promised since this mountain had steep cliffs on most of the sides.

We returned back to near the cave and then walked down some more stairs. There was one middle aged man who was running up and down the stairs, carrying bags of water. He said he was trying to water all the his plants along the stairs within one hour. He seemed to have more energy than us younger people!

Then it was off to the bus station to get a 1 hour truck ride to Inle Lake. We found the truck and I got in to wait for enough people to show up. The driver kept talking to me. Niilar said “The driver is a little drunk.” I said, “Ok, I’ll just put my seatbelt on.” But there were no seatbelts in this truck. Then I was thinking I have no heath insurance if we crash, so maybe I have to draw the line here and keep my mom happy.

I decide to not take the truck to Inle Lake. Even though I’ve been waiting 20 or 30 minutes for the truck to leave, as soon as I get out, tons of people jump on and the truck leaves. I learn they were trying to get me to pay more money to get the truck to leave sooner. They were trying to make it look like there weren’t enough people to go. So instead I find a cheap hotel for tonight and try again in the morning.

Day 79 – Taunggyi, Myanmar

I got invited to a home of a Myanmar family by a girl on the bus named Niilar. She was visiting her family for the first time in over seven years. I think it was 5 or 6AM when we arrived at the home and turned out to be a long day. The home was like a small restaurant and store in the front. They burn wood to cook the food. I got to go down the street to the Aunt’s home which was a little bigger. I got to meet more of the family, like grandmother and more aunts and uncles. Not many foreigners visit here, so it was special.

I got a tour of the new home the family is building. Much more modern. A flush toilet instead of an outhouse, for example. The village has a couple wells where people bring up buckets of water by hand. Some homes are nearly 100 years old, others are brand new.

I tried to visit Kakku, an ancient site with over 2000 stupas of unknown age. We took two motorcycles. One with Niilar and her brother driving. Another with me and her brother’s friend driving. We were stopped at a government checkpoint and couldn’t go any further without a $10 permit which we had to get somewhere in town. I decided not to waste any more time and money with this military government and skip this place.

Then we decide to visit Montawa Cave. The city is on top of a mountain and the road to the cave gave an amazing view of the surrounding country around the mountain. After the road ended, we had to walk to the cave. There is a Buddhist temple at the mouth of the cave and we all met the abbot. I signed the guestbook and was surprised to see I was the only foreigner to ever do so. It was quite a special place on the side of a mountain, a cave, a waterfall, and a great view.

Next we had to take our shoes off to go inside the cave since there are Buddha statues inside. There were at least 100 of various sizes. Next thing I noticed was the sound of bats all over the roof of the cave. I was thinking, maybe this is why it isn’t so popular since you have to walk barefoot through bat guano here. After the area of statues the cave goes further back. It got muddy and slippery in some areas, a little dangerous with bare feet. The cave got smaller, we had to crouch down and walk through some water, then it opened up again. At one point the cave split in two directions. One way you could hear the sound of water flowing, but it was a drop straight down, little too dangerous. Finally, we made it to the end of the cave. Actually it went a little farther, but again went down and it would be better if we had ropes.

Then I suggested we turn off all the flashlights for a few minutes. There is no electricity in this cave, you are totally on your own here. We took about one hour to walk to the end and back. Not sure exactly how long it is, I couldn’t measure. After exiting, we washed off our muddy feet in the stream just above the waterfall.

There was one more stop at one of the more impressive pagodas in the city and then I was dropped off at my hotel. It seems I’m not allowed to stay with any Myanmar family in this country, so that’s why I had to find the hotel.

Day 78 – Bago, Myanmar

Bago was one of the old capitals of the country, so there are quite a few interesting things to see. I was hoping to find a bicycle, but I didn’t know where to rent one. So I just walked everywhere. Most people hire a driver, but I’m crazy.

I got up early and was surprised to see hundreds of monks walking down the streets of the city in a line collecting food, all barefoot in red robes.

I got to see most of the places except an old palace which wasn’t open yet and one statue which was too far away. I saw Shwethalyaung Buddha (and a bigger reclining Buddha called Nanung Daw Gyi Mya Tha Lyang) and Shwemawdaw Paya. Actually walking is probably better than driving since you can see  a lot  more.

A road is under construction here in the middle of the city. It is interesting to see how this construction is done here as there is little machinery. Many women are involved, putting rocks into baskets, then placing the baskets on their heads and dumping somewhere else. Then other women arrange all the rocks for a stable foundation of the road.

At about 1:00 my bus left to my next destination. The bus ended up being about 15 hours in duration. The first half of the trip included Myanmar movies and music videos played at a high volume. I wish my good earphones where working today.

Day 77 – Kyaiktiyo to Bago, Myanmar

I took the 8:30AM bus and arrived in Bago at 11:30AM. The previous guesthouse recommended this bus and a new guesthouse in Bago. But I’m not sure I want to get stuck in this series of recommendations. I looked at the recommended guest house and I learn the entire city has a rolling blackout in place. This means there is 6 hours of electricity and then 12 hours of no electricity. During my stay in Bago the 6 hours will be from 11PM-5AM. Convenient!

I took a room and a different guest house for $5. I find that the shared bathroom is so dark since there is no electricity or window. There was a driver who wanted to take me around to all the sights, but I said I would try to rent a bicycle the next day instead. He wasn’t too happy.

I found an Internet Cafe for the first time in a couple of days. They had some battery and generator power. Nearing sunset, I walked to Kha Khat Wian Kyang, a monastery with 1500 monks. It was kind of a maze of corridors and at one point a point signaled to follow him, so I did. He brought me to a monk that spoke some English and I found myself in the living quarters. He explained 12 people slept on the floor of this room. He explained everyone was education from primary school through university education here. He took me to see one classroom. It was really simple, no desks, no chairs, just young monks lying or sitting on the floor with paper and pencil.

At sunset, I started walking back and I saw something strange in the sky. I realized these were swarms of bats. I could see a big line of bats coming over the horizon, something new to me.

Day 76 – Kyaikiyo, Myanmar

I got up early. Well, I had no choice because there was some loud talking coming out of speakers somewhere. I had a simple breakfast (almost always included with the room price) and then got in a big pickup truck that will drive me to the top of the mountain. It is hard to believe, but there were about 50 people in one pickup truck. I was at the back and they made me stand up while there were rows of people in front of me sitting on planks.

It wasn’t exactly a relaxing 45 minute drive to the top, but more like a rollercoaster going through the mountains where there is no seatbelt. A little scary.

After the ride was over, then I walked the rest of the way to the top, another 45 minutes or so. Before I could enter the area at the top I had to go through the military government checkpoint, who asked for my passport, where I was staying, $6 entrance fee and $2 camera fee but only in dollar bills that were in new condition. I dumped out my whole stash of US dollars to try to get something they would like. Most of the ones I brought from home they didn’t like. Then I had to take off my shoes and socks at the top of the mountain.

It is the golden rock which is the whole reason everyone comes here. A huge bolder balanced at the peak of the mountain where men add gold leaf everyday. It was a nice place to spend a few hours.

I headed over to another area where I needed to take my shoes off, when I came out I saw Myanmar people trying on my shoes, which are kind of alien here. I’m starting to think if it was a bad idea to buy new shoes when there are so many times I need to take them off and there is the risk of them being stolen.

Then I walked down the mountain on the trail for about 4 hours. Unfortunately, I forgot my sun lotion. I was walking through high noon and I cold see my skin getting red and burnt. I didn’t have any hat, only sunglasses. During the walk down I passed by simple wood and straw built homes. Most homes had a place where you can put money for donations. I saw one woman roasting the face of a goat; it looked like a mask. No electricity or anything here. I was thinking how do these people survive up here in the mountains without an Xbox 360?

Day 75 – Yangon to Kyaiktiyo, Myanmar

It takes a long time to get anywhere in Myanmar, so I had to get an early start. The previous day I got some information on buses, so I made my way to the bus stop by way of taxi. Then I got on this ancient bus with rusted metal everywhere, wondering how safe this is to scrape your skin up against. Unfortunately, bus 43 didn’t take me all the way to the highway bus station. The conductor told me to get off.

When I got off, I asked some people how to get the rest of the way to the bus station. They said to take bus 43. So I got on the next bus 43 and right away the conductor told me to get off. So I decided to walk from here. After a while some truck picked me up and took me to the station.

I got a ticket and about 6 hours later made it to the Kinpun base camp where I got a room and prepare for the next day. My $5 room was pretty bad. There was no fan and no screens on the windows and there was some kind of bad smell. But I think good enough for me.

Day 74 – Yangon, Myanmar

It has been an eventful year in this country. A year ago there were some big anti-government protests. Then last May 146,000 people died from the category 4 storm called Cyclone Nargis. Throughout all this, government wouldn’t allow any foreign volunteers or journalists into the country. But I got in.

The first thing you notice is the men wearing a type of skirt here called longyi. Next thing you notice is monks walking barefoot on the city streets. This morning I decided to take a walk and see some sights. It was interesting to see how they deliver newspapers. There are strings hanging down from each apartment. A man clips the newspaper onto the end of the string, gives it a shake which sounds a bell, then the person inside pulls up the string with newspaper attached.

Kandawgyi Lake was my first stop. You can’t miss the huge boat shaped Karaweik Palace Restaurant there.

Then I walked to Shwedagon Paya, one of the most famous places in the country and I spent a few hours looking at everything there. Afterwards, I was hungry so I tried a few restaurants. I was scared when I saw there were no posted prices if there was any menu at all. They give away free tea and I was relived when I paid the local price for the food.

I tried one of the trucks carrying people around the city, since I was feeling adventurous. I tried to ask the driver where he was going and it sounded like it was the right way so I got on. I tried to pay, but he wouldn’t accept for some reason. Maybe not many westerners have tried this so he just let me on for free.

Now I was in the market. I needed some flip-flops, so I found some for $2. And then I found a DVD for $0.40. But this was just a DVD-R, not a professional stamped one and it didn’t work in my computer. I think I learned if you’re going to buy something fake, you better do it in China. The best fakes are from China.

Day 73 – Thailand to Myanmar

I didn’t really try sleeping in the airport. I knew I wouldn’t be able to. After a few hours I was able to check-in for my next flight and go back through security. Less than a week ago this airport was the center of a huge protest which stranded hundreds of thousands of tourists in the country and led the country to change prime ministers. There wasn’t any sign of all that protest now, things appeared to be back to normal.

I took a short flight to Yangon, Myanmar (also known as Burma). The time zone here is 30 minutes behind, which makes it a usual changing the clocks. Once I arrived at the tiny international airport I noticed this country is very low-key and quite pleasant. I don’t see crowds of people rushing everywhere, I don’t hear car horns, and taxi drivers aren’t bothering me too much.

The guesthouse I wanted to stay had at some representatives at the airport and there was a big group of people who went to stay at the Motherland Inn, including me. It was a free pickup from the airport, which was nice. When I arrived at the guesthouse, they served a free western breakfast.

I was tired since it was a 40 hour journey since I left Beijing, so I ended up staying at the guesthouse and sleeping in my $7 room in the day.

The downsides not so easy access to drinking water water here and almost no useable internet connection in this country due to the government trying to make it impossible for you to communicate with the outside world.

Day 72 – China to Thailand

I’m on my way to Myanmar. It was nearly a 24 hour train ride from Beijing to Shenzhen. I climbed up into my upper level sleeper and stayed there most of the time.

I arrived in Shenzhen at 8PM, found an airport bus and went directly to the airport. At the airport two women said they were hungry, wanted bread and pointed to KFC. I gave them some extra food I had with me, even though I was getting hungry myself. Seemed like food wasn’t good enough, they wanted money. I just told them to eat this.

Shenzhen has a tiny international area, but they did have some wi-fi access which was useful. As my flight was boarding I learned there is a job interview for me in the US. Uh oh! Too bad this didn’t happen a few days ago when I had more time.

It was three hours to Bangkok, Thailand, where I planned to spend the night in the airport.

One more story about China. Some Chinese people told me they saw home prices were so cheap in the US. It sounds like some are interested in buying US real estate as an investment. I was thinking, is this the future? Will China buy the USA?

Day 67-71 – Beijing & Tianjin, China

After waiting, the airport in Thailand opened again (after the protesters won and the prime minister has been banned from politics for 5 years). AirAsia’s phone lines were quite busy and it took be a lot of trying before I could get through to reschedule my flights. But I finally did it without any charges.

I took a day trip to Tianjin on the world’s fastest intercity rail line. The fast “C” train opened this August. The speed display peaked out at 333kph (207mph). After 30 minutes, I arrived. I visited the Nanjing Museum and some of the historical streets filled with buildings made by various countries.

I visited a dentist for a cleaning here, since I have been going on 2 years without one since I’ve had no insurance. I showed up at a smaller office and there was no wait. There was only a receptionist and a dentist there (seems like no hygienists) and I got a cleaning right away which was fairly similar to what I got in the US. Instead of using the tools to scrape off any plaque, they used some vibrating tool. I didn’t get any inspection of each tooth and no x-rays. But final cost was $16.

I bought some new shoes since my Nike Air shoes have some small holes in them. Some people commented I look like a poor person in these shoes. I visited a sporting goods store and got a $36 pair of shoes which seem alright. The cheapest ones they were selling were $14, so I didn’t get the worst or the best there.

Finally, I got a hair cut in preparation of the next part of my trip. I visited a hair salon in the business district which seemed pretty fancy. It takes two people in China to cut your hair. One is the assistant who washes the hair and leads me around and the other who cuts the hair. And after the haircut was another wash. Total price was $4.